The denizens of Louisville, KY will likely be gulping down what they call derby pies for tomorrow’s event at Churchill Downs, but only one business has the legal right to call its creations Derby-Pie, reports NPR’s Foodways blog.
That company is Kerns Kitchen, and it doesn’t shy away from suing in its fight to keep the term from becoming genericized, potentially leading to a loss of its legal trademark.
One restaurant worker remembers when she and her co-workers used to serve what they called derby pie, until the establishment received a cease-and-desist from Kerns.
“You can say, ‘We have chocolate pecan pie, but we do not have Derby-Pie,’ ” the worker says now if someone orders a derby pie. “You didn’t know if they’d sent a plant in to see if we were doing it or not.”
Kerns says its Derby-Pie chocolate nut pie was created by family members in the 1950s as their restaurant’s signature item. The company later ditched the restaurant idea and kept the pie business, registering Derby-Pie as a trademark around that time.
With a business that produces 800 pies per day, according to the company, Kerns is fierce about protecting its recipe and technique, along with staunchly defending the trademarked name.
In another legal battle, the manager of a local diner has been sued twice by the company, once in 1997 and once in 2007.
“I actually put up a sign after that conversation [that read]: Have a piece of ‘I Can’t Call It Derby Pie’ pie,” he says of his reaction during the first legal battle. Now though, he says he makes a Kentucky Bourbon Pie.
Though Kern’s doesn’t want its pie to go the way of zipper, laundromat and linoleum — other trademarked names that fell to genericide when people used them to reference any similar product — critics say threatening other people who use the name is robbing Kentuckians of their history, Kentuckians who might think of a different recipe when they hear “derby pie” anyway.
“If you have people scared to use the words ‘derby pie,’ and yet Grandma used to make it, then you’ve really banished Grandma in a way, haven’t you?” the diner owner says.
What’s Inside A ‘Derby Pie’? Maybe A Lawsuit Waiting To Happen [NPR Foodways]
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